It seemed only fitting to have the first Vionnet show in Milan hosted at such a magical location of the 15-century Casa Degli Atellani, a vineyard of Leonardo Da Vinci’s. Maybe to make everything even more perfect, you could hear birds chirping in the background to really draw from the inspiration. The flowing effortlessness of long dresses, skirts, and jackets made each of the models wearing them look chic and modern. The brand remained classic with the light chiffon, silks, and Greco-Roman style but had a modern-twist with bell-bottoms, denim, and industrial hints on dresses.
Vionnet Backstage with Mac Cosmetics
Vionnet Fall Winter 2017 2018
The inspiration for the collection came from New Guinea, and the colorful lightness of the birds of paradise. The inspiration seemed to translate quite literally with the fluidity of the dresses and even embroidered birds on some of the pieces. The feathers of the birds inspired the pops of color including turquoise, fuchsia, and greens that contrasted the black and light brown. The creative director compared these exotic birds to women of modernity. Goga Ashkenazi was not only inspired New Guinea, but also a picture of the Vionnet Atelier staff, which were mainly women. Emotions felt from these photos were put into the designs, contributing to the “women’s empowerment” theme that we saw during Milan Fashion Week. The beautiful dresses were accessorized with ankle boots, mules, and necklaces with precious stones.
This was Vionnet’s first time showing at Milan Fashion Week, and the creative designer, who took over the brand in 2012, said that they feel right at home here in Milan since the designs are made here in Italy. An aspect that remained relevant in the collection is the bias cut, which was invented by Madame Madeleine Vionnet. While capturing the fluidity that the 1912 brand was founded on, Goga Ashkenazi has found a way to make the brand modern and in-touch with today’s woman.
Written by Paige Peterson – Photography @TheDollsFactory